Ammo Electronics Box
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The angler who does not use some type of electronics when fishing, especially on the ice, is really at a disadvantage. There are numerous depth and fish locators on the market. Some are "flasher units" using flasher technology and other units use Liquid Crystal Displays (LCD). For years flashers were the equipment of choice for ice fishermen in the know. Flashers carry no memory or historical data and have no screen to keep reprinting so they were much faster than the LCD units. However, with advanced technology and adequate power on many newer LCD units you can get pretty close to real time using the type of depth finder you have on your boat. The key is to get adequate power for the number of pixels your unit is trying to print. Too many pixels for the level of power will cause a delay in the response of the signal which you just can't have while ice fishing. (Or atleast that's my opinion.) Another factor is that now many LCD units have flasher type display screens on them, some even in color, for those who like to see the circular flasher display. To me the main factor in decided whether to get a "flasher" unit (which is still a very good if not the best ice unit) or an LCD unit was that I wanted a unit that I could use on my boat during open water season and on the ice during winter. I also had become familiar with the LCD units and knew how to use them. To illustrate the pixel to power problem: When I bought my first LCD unit to put on the "Ammo Electronics Box" the Lowrance X51, it was a very nice unit; however, it was trying to paint too many pixels for the amount of power it had. Using that unit I got a fraction of a second delay before seeing the movement of fish or bait on the display. I'd move my lure, then I'd see it move a fraction of a second later on the screen. I didn't like that delay but I knew it wasn't that I had too inexpensive a unit because the fellow I was fishing with had a 128 pixel older unit with the same power and that unit did not have the delay. We determined that it was a power to pixel issue. You can buy a unit with lesser pixels or buy one with more power and either will work fine for ice fishing. With more pixels you see a clearer and more detailed picture of the bottom and water column, but sitting still on the ice there isn't too much detail to look at. Power you need to either push more pixels or to give you a clear signal from the bottom when traveling in a boat at high speeds. I not only wanted a unit that worked well on the ice I also wanted one I could use on my boat so I upgraded to the X97 unit, a 360 X 360 pixel unit with 3,000 watts, twice the power of the X51. Now I get almost real time response on my LCD screen and I'm using the same unit summer and winter. Below illustrates how to rig up an "Ammo Electronics Box". Even better units are on the market today like the X125 and X135 models from Lowrence. Items you will need:
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STEP 1 - Top |
STEP 1a - Depth Finder Mount Bracket: Hold the bracket on top of the ammo box near the front of the lid (so that the LCD screen will be facing the front of the box) and mark where the holes need to go to hold the bracket to the box. You can mark the center hole in the bracket so you can run the power cord through that hole but it might be easier to run the power cable through a hole just behind the depth finder mount like is illustrated for the Power Cable below. Drill holes and mount the depth finder bracket to the ammo box with nuts and bolts. You may need to cut notches in the plastic braces on the bottom of the ammo box lid with a knief so that the bolts fit in the best location. STEP 1b - Power Cable: Either use the center hole drilled in step 1a above, or drill an alternate hole just behind the depth finder bracket and run the power cable through the ammo box lid to the battery. If you plan to take the unit off the "Ammo Electronics Box" during open water season, you may want to buy a second power connector for your unit. STEP 1c - Transducer Cable: Because your transducer cable is much longer than you need on the "Ammo Electronics Box" most of the cable will remain inside the box. Unlike the illustration that shows two holes for the transducer cable; I've decided it's better to only drill one hole in the lid, toward the mounting bracket. The hole will have to be large enough so that the end of the cable that connects to the unit can fit through it. This usually requires a 1-inch hole. Instead of drilling a second 1-inch hole in the lid for the transducer cable to exit the box cut a notch in the side of the box just in front of the battery. The illustration for step 2 shows the notch cut right where the battery is sitting but the notch should be another inch or two toward the front of the box. Wrap excess transducer cable up leaving 3-4 feet of loose cable down to the transducer and but one or more twist ties on the wrapped cable. The advantage of the notch in the side rather than a second hole is that when not in use you can but the transducer and all of the cable inside of the box. STEP 1d - Transducer - T bracket(s) (Optional): You can add brackets like you use in your garage, to hold the broom and rake against the wall, to the top of the ammo box to hold the transducer - PVC "T" while you're moving from one hole to the other. I've found that is is a big advantage. |
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STEP 2 - Inside |
STEP 2 - Inside: Inside the Box you'll need a 12 volt 7 amp battery that cost about $20. I also recommend a small battery tester. While these batteries normally keep their charge for 2-3 days while out on the ice, you'll want to recharge them as soon as possible. Even a brand new battery will be ruined if you drain it and leave it uncharged for an extended period of time. Also put your excess transducer cable and the extention to your transducer - T (if you have one) inside the box for storage. The extention is explained in step 3. |
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STEP 3 - Transducer-T |
STEP 3 - Transducer-"T": You'll need 19-25 inches of 1/2-inch schedule 40 PVC pipe, which you'll cut into (2) 5 1/4 inch sections and (1) 8 1/2 inch section to make the "T". You may cut another 6" piece if you're making an extention to the PVC Pipe "T" for when you're in extremely deep ice. (The kits sold by Sportsman's Warehouse do not include the parts for this extention.) In addition, you'll need 3 PVC T joins and one cupling. The cupling is to connect the extra 6 inch extention piece of pvc to the original 8 1/2 inch piece to lengthen the transducer shaft going down into the water when you get in extremely thick ice. Put a PVC "T" joint in the middle and on each end of the 5 1/4 inch pieces of pipe that form the top of the T. The purpose of the "T" joints on the ends is to be used when leveling the unit on uneven ice. Next fasten the transducer to the end of the 8 1/2 inch piece of pipe using the transducer bracket (horseshoe type clamp with plastic fittings molded to fit the pipe.) Next use 3 zip ties to attach the first 8 inches of transducer cable to the 8 1/2 inch piece of PVC pipe. (all other pvc parts will be hand fitted so that they can be taken apart and stored when needed. Do not glue the PVC pipes or joints together. The pipe sizes were determined by trial and error to find out what size pipes would easily fit back into the ammo box. You could cut much longer pipes but then they would not fit back into the box. If you have built the 6-inch extention pipe it goes between the crossbar on the "T" and the section where the transducer is attached. |
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STEP 4 - Level (Optional) |
STEP 4 - Level (Optional): It's important that the transducer is level in the water. You may be able to "eye" it and get pretty close; however, I recommend that you tape a mason's line level to the top center T - joint of the transducer - T. In addition, and also optional, is to add weight to the back of the transducer bracket to off-set the fact that the transducer sits in front of the T and tends to cause it to tilt backwards a little in the hole. I have found that adding (2) 1 1/2 ounce bell sinkers to the back of the transducer bracket will help balance the Transducer in the hole. You can also just sit the unit toward the back of the hole and eliminate the need for the weight. |
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The "Ammo Electronics Box" allows you to use a fish locator/depth finder with LCD screen on the ice or on a rental boat or other small craft where mobility of the unit is important. Why buy 2 fish locators when one will do. See the folks in the fishing department at Sportsman's Warehouse in Aurora for everything you need. Or send me an email with your questions and I'll try to explain. |